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Download Gleaner M2 Owners Manual카테고리 없음 2020. 12. 3. 00:27
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Yesterday's Tractors Forum Index >View previous topic :: View next topic Author Message Joe Pro
Long Time User
Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 825
Location: Ashland Ohio
Report to ModeratorPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:13 am Post subject: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! I had several posts looking for advice on feeding / plugging issues on my new to me Gleaner M2.
Well I finally finished my soybean harvest and I learned several things.
For anyone having problem feeding short beans, and feeding in general along with or without plugging the feeder beater.. Or just plugging the feeder beater in general here is what I did.
I took apart the feeder beater slip clutch....
I ended up replacing the jaw set even though mine didn't look terribly worn. After comparing mine to a new set I figured I would try a new set and what a difference it made!! I inspected the springs and reassembled with a new lock collar on the bearing behind the beater drive sprocket.
After replacing the jaws ( and setting the proper clearance) I never once plugged the beater.
Second, which I think made the biggest difference.....
I mounted a piece of 3' flexible corrugated field tile behind the cutter bar on my Series 3 head.
This made the head feed 1,000% better. The the beans fell over the tile and the auger picked them up quickly. Most of the beans I cut with this setup were longer, but I did cut some short beans and they fed very well.
The combine ran very smooth after I installed the tile behind the cutter bar, it seriously ran so smooth that I had to keep looking behind me and make sure beans were running into the bin.
The combine operated amazing after these modifications and I hope that someone can attain some help from my post!Back to top johnemcn
Regular
Joined: 17 Apr 2007
Posts: 83
Report to ModeratorPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:18 am Post subject: Re: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! Good work Joe! Back to top 4020 electrician
Long Time User
Joined: 15 Sep 2013
Posts: 550
Report to ModeratorPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:25 am Post subject: Re: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! Gleaners are fairly simple to work on. Another thing
you might want to check are the rubber bushings on
the cleaning shoe. They are easy to change. If they
come apart while combining they can cause a
headache..Back to top rkc9700
Regular
Joined: 18 Jul 2011
Posts: 218
Report to ModeratorPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:35 am Post subject: Re: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! could you possibley get pictures of the tile installed?? Back to top Joe Pro
Long Time User
Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 825
Location: Ashland Ohio
Report to ModeratorPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:21 am Post subject: Re: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! I should have taken some photos!!
I already removed it to clean the head up for winter storage.
I drilled one hole out to 3/8' in a 3' conduit clamp and used a screw on the other side.
The tile fit perfectly on the knife back.
I used the guard bolts to mount the front of the conduit clamp.
Ive read of people using conduit or PVC, but I don't feel that will flex enough.Back to top paul
Tractor Guru
Joined: 25 Dec 1997
Posts: 25595
Report to ModeratorPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 11:12 am Post subject: Re: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! I -must- remember to order a set of slip clutch for my M3 this August when they have their sale. My M3 was good, but a year of flattened corn made it slip all the time. Like you say it looks good, but that time 2 years ago in the down corn had to have worn it down.
Got one closeup pic of mine on the iPad to share. This is actually a spare head, yes it needs knife/guards......
PaulBack to top gbs
Long Time User
Joined: 30 Oct 2010
Posts: 1347
Report to ModeratorPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 4:48 pm Post subject: Re: Gleaner M2 / Series 3 head update!! I was having the same problem with the feeder beater clutch slipping on an F3 and there didn't appear to be enough material under the beater to cause the problem, I took it apart and didn't see anything wrong except someone had put shims under the retaining nut to try and increase the tension, I got to reading the manual and it give the distance between housings to get the proper spring tension, I had a lot more than the book called for so I disassembled the clutch again an noticed the shaft had worn into the assembly housing, the shims that had been installed under the nut didn't help because the end cap shouldered up against the end of the shaft when tightened,so I put shims on the shaft then installed the clutch assembly, kept increasing the number of shims until they moved the housing out enough to get the correct gap between the housings once it was tightened down, since then it has only released when truly choked Back to top Yesterday's Tractors Forum Index ->Combines and Harvesters All times are GMT - 8 Hours Page 1 of 1 TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS Gleaner M2 Radiator
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